Gay Madrid

 
Hostal La Zona (view from my balcony) is only one block form Gran Via (center view) and easy walk to all gay bars, restaurants, clubs of Chueca!

La Zona Hostal: I've stayed at many hostals in Madrid and this is the best!
Located just one block from Gran Via Metro station on Calle Valverde - it is an easy 3 block walk to Chueca's nightlife, cafes, tapas bars and restaurants.

This is a gay hostal - but unlike most gay accommodations which seem to be overpriced - Hostal La Zona was the least expensive of the options I researched for this trip. I booked a two twin bedded room for 70 Euros per night, but rooms with one full bed were 60 Euros double or 50 Euros single - and this included all taxes plus a good breakfast every morning. The breakfast was served until noon - which was great, since the nightlife in Madrid doesn't really get started until 2am and goes until dawn...

Rooms are small - and bathrooms are tiny. Think about the smallest bathrooms you've seen on cruise ships and you'll get an idea of the size. I estimated about 2.5 feet wide and maybe 8 feet long with most of that taken up by the shower on one end and the toilet on the other. Extra tall or wide people may have issues. There was good shelf space considering the size. However, the small bathrooms may be a blessing, since the manager told me that this is the reason that they don't feel they can charge more for the rooms.

Rooms are spotlessly clean, with wardrobes, TV (all Spanish stations) and heat/air conditioning. Windows are thick and noise resistant - but you'll still hear horns or sirens at night since the streets are narrow and often blocked by cars stopping to load/unload or wait for someone. There are two discos across the street, but they weren't noisy - and the bouncers were an extra element of security at night.

One big concern is that doors have to be slammed to close them from the outside so you hear banging doors thoughout the day. They are the hollow type, so sound just bounces like a drum.

This is easily avoided if people would use their key to close the door - and suddenly it is silent! I spoke to the staff and they promised that they would start to let new guests know to use their key to close the door - and even asked me to write a small notice in English that they could put on each door to remind guests to close the doors quietly. They must have at least started instructing guests - since I noticed much less slamming toward the end of my stay.

My room had a small balcony which is nice - I had a view down to Gran Via. Wi-Fi internet access is free in your room if you bring your own computer. There is a common computer in the lobby for people not traveling with their laptops - and other guests were very considerate about keeping usage to a reasonable time limit.

Staff was always helpful with suggestions on where to go - and there were plenty of maps, guides and brochures on both floors.

The hostel is on two floors - with an internal stairway so you don't have to go into the public halls to move up or down. Computer is on the first floor and breakfast on the second floor.

A small elevator was a blessing with our heavy bags. Front door to the building had double locked security at night.

There is a good Ecuadorian restaurant right across the street and a tapas bar next door. Several mini-marts make it easy to pick up snacks. There is also a fancy new 4-star hotel across the street with a restaurant and bar - but it looked expensive compared to other alternatives. Rooms were in the 200 Euro range compared to our 70 Euro bargain.

The bars are easy to get to. Odarko is only two blocks to one side - and the Eagle, LL, Leather Bar, Hot Bears, Bear Bar, Paws, Men Sauna, SR Shop and all of gay Chueca are just 3 blocks to the other side.

We were here during Sleazy Madrid - so we expected mostly Leather guys - but the mix was everything Heave Leather to Bears to Disco Bunnies and everyone got along just fine.

I'm planning a return trip in a few months and will definitely book a room here again!

 Find the best deal, compare prices for Hostal La Zona and read what other travelers have to say at TripAdvisor

Odarko - Loreto y Chicote 7: If you're into the Leather scene, this is the new place to go in Madrid. Just outside the Chueca area, it is only two blocks from La Zona and Gran Via. Smaller than I expected from their website, but except for peak periods from 2-4am, its not too crowded.

Open every night after 11pm until about 4am or when the guys finally leave.  See the map for location - its in the red light district, so there are lots of putas on the street. 

Look for either the closed Cinema Luna or the Club 69 and Kiss Bar as landmarks.  The bar is on the small street that runs behind the closed cinema.  Look for the Leather and Gay Flags and ring the bell.

Entrance is 8 Euros during the week and 10 Euros on weekends - includes one drink and you can come and go without paying again. Grab a coupon for free entry on Sunday nights.

There are three darkrooms here - so if you are just looking for a social scene, the Eagle is probably a better choice - most guys here seem ready for action - not chatting.

Check their website at www.odarko.com for a better view of the map and also the calendar of special theme nights and events. 

Note: there is a strict leather, military, skinhead, industrial, sports outfit, boots-only, rubber or uniform dress code - so unless you're there on sneaker night - make sure you fit the code or you may be required to go somewhere else.

Madrid Eagle - Pelayo 30: This is the traditional leather bar in Madrid and opens at 2pm until about 4am. The back room area here is very small, so this tends to be more of a social bar where people get together to chat or cruise. On weekends there is a very strict leather, military, rubber dresscode - but in the afternoon anyone who looks butch can get in with a less restrictive code. No entrance fee - so its a stop on almost every leather guys nightly crawl.

Leather Bar - Pelayo 42: This used to be a second leather bar just down the street from The Eagle - but since Odarko has opened, this has almost no leather clientele.  Its a mix of after work crowd, pre-disco crowd, older guys and a smattering of almost everyone else. This makes it fun to stop by and see what's going on - but Leather is definitely no longer a leather bar.  Even on their announced 'Leather and Bears' night I couldn't find much that fit that category. No cover during the week - one drink minimum enforced at the door on weekends and theme nights.

LL Show Bar - Pelayo 11: The minute you walk in you may be part of the show since the Drag Queens specialize in having a good time and goofing the personalities they imitate as well as the audience. Shows start early by Madrid standards - with the fun starting at 11:30pm.   Even if you just stop by for one drink - you'll want to check it out. If you speak a little Spanish, or are familiar with some of the stars of Spanish music, TV or cinema you won't be able to keep a straight face (so to speak..). Even without Spanish, you'll appreciate their interpretations of Jennifer Lopez, Donna Summers and more...

Hot Bears - Infantas 9: Still going strong with a second bar downstairs on weekends.

Copper Bar - San Vicente Ferrar 34: This used to be a leather-oriented bar but like Leather Bar it has lost that crowd to Odarko. It has now become the 'naked' and 'underwear' bar for Madrid - so if that's your thing, this is the place.  The bar is small and the back room is tiny - but the bartenders can be very hot and the crowd is everything from college kids to seniors wearing nothing but a smile. In between is a bit of everything.  Theme nights are common if you're into cockrings, dildos, underwear, etc.

Strong Center - Trijillos 7: Enormous gay disco near Plaza San Martin and the Callao metro station. Entry is about 14 Euros and drinks are expensive, but the dance floor is big and the labyrinth and dark rooms infamous. Don't even think about going before 2am and then it will probably be daylight when you finally leave.

California Video - Valverde 20:  Just down the street from Hostal La Zona past the Siete Islas Hotel. Don't confuse it with the straight pick-up sex shop closer to Gran Via. Pay 6 Euros and have access to all the porn you can handle in the back theater showing gay flicks or the booths in front with a mix of gay and straight porn.  Open until 10pm only so its most crowded at lunch and after work.

Into the Tank - various locations each year: Sleazy Madrid's main event, this party was held in town so it was easy to get to... at a disco that is usually straight.  If you like the circuit-type super-events with big disco floors and lots and lots of people in one place - this is for you.  This year was 20 Euros with advance purchase and 25 Euros at the door. The dress code was supposed to be strict - but it didn't seem to happen.

El Rincon de Pelayo - Pelayo 19: Fantastic restaurant affiliated with LL bar. Try this out as soon as you get to Madrid.  The fixed price menu for 10 Euros at lunch and 12 Euros for dinner came with 3 courses, bread and a full bottle of wine for two people. Friendly gay staff, fast service, good food and a great price. Dinner starts at 9pm for the tourists and locals start showing up betweek 10:30 and 11pm.

Las Ventas Bullfights - Metro Linea 5 to Las Ventas: Forget the animal cruelty angle that keeps many away from the bullfights today.  This is really a ritual animal sacrifice that honors the bull and is probably less 'cruel' then the way they knock off the cow that turns into your corner fast-food burger.

Since we all know the bull has no chance - the local audience is there to appreciate the skill and technique of the matador and the temper of the bull.

Think of it as 'the dying swan' for the macho crowd and try to read up on the traditions, the different phases and you'll see why the crowd is cheering or booing through the event.

There are six bulls for each event with three matadors appearing twice. Its rare that tourists ever stay past the third fight.  I left after three - but watched on TV the next day to see the action close up.  All bullfights are broadcast live on TV - which makes it even more impressive when even on a bad day there are 15,000 - 20,000 spectators at the bullring.

Seats are on hard granite bleachers with not much room for your legs. You can rent a cushion for a little more comfort - but if you only stay for a few fights you probably don't need it.

Prices range from 5 Euros up to 140 Euros - so buy a cheaper seat in the 'sunny' section. We sat in the fourth row for about 22 Euros and it was perfect to get an idea of the spectacle.

Fights start at about 6:30pm on Sundays and other days for special events. From mid-May through June there are fights almost every day for the San Isidro festival. Make sure you get advance tickets during this festival. You can also purchase tickets online at www.las-ventas.com .

The sun can still be pretty strong even late in the day, so bring a hat and some sun block if you're in the cheaper 'sol' seats.

You can find advance purchase tickets near the Callao metro stop at the FNAC store. The ticket outlet is not in the store - but at the end near Plaza del Sol. They only take cash and also handle concert and theater tickets. You'll pay a small service charge, but be certain you have your seats.

Before the fight starts, there are lots of T-shirt vendors in the plaza with the best prices in Madrid.  Almost any of the T-shirts you find downtown for 6-15 Euros are on sale here for 5 Euros.

If you don't go for the fights, the building is still impressive enough to snap a photo - and its a notorious gay cruising area at night.